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Issue 68 2020 CONTENTS

Features

34 DE GUSTIBUS MICHAEL BROADBENT AND THE BORDEAUX CLUB Hugh Johnson remembers happy times with his late friend at the exclusive club.

108 FACE TO FACE ANTONIO AMORIM: PORTUGAL’S CORK KING Margaret Rand meets the long-standing CEO of the world’s largest cork-stopper producer.

112 BURGUNDY PORTRAIT CÉCILE TREMBLAY Jon Wyand photographs the winemaker at her family domaine in Morey-St-Denis.

114 THEN AND NOW UN NOUVEAU MONDE: HOW THE FRENCH SHAPED EARLY AMERICAN WINE Sal Westrich on the role played by French winemakers in 18th- and 19th-century USA.

120 WINE & WORDS SETTLERS Judy O’Kane’s latest poem is inspired by a trip to Central Otago.

122 RIESLING, UNFORTUNATELY Terry Theise on Riesling’s unpopularity and whether to preach to the unconverted.

128 ANDERSON VALLEY: HIDE AND SEEK Jim Clarke reports from the Mendocino County AVA with a rising reputation.

134 ENLIGHTENED LIKINGS Should and do our likes and dislikes inform our aesthetic judgments, asks David Schildknecht.

142 SYMPOSIUM CELEBRATION OF FLIGHT DINNER: CLARET OVER THE ATLANTIC Raymond Blake on an aviation-themed evening of fine food and Bordeaux wine, with Irish twists.

148 BORDEAUX PORTRAIT JEAN-GUILLAUME PRATS: NATIVE SON Elin McCoy meets the experienced and talented Médocain back in Bordeaux running Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite).

152 ON THE VINE HIDALGO: A SANLÚCAR STORY Simon Field MW visits the great Sherry bodega in coastal Andalusia.

158 VIN VOYAGE VOLCANIC VITIVINICULTORES In the company of new-wave winemaker Carmelo Peña, Darren Smith tours the vineyards and wines of the Canary Islands.

164 VINIFERA CABERNET FRANC IN ONTARIO: A NEW NORTHERN STAR Cabernet Franc has become a key red variety in the Canadian province, says Rod Phillips. Château incet

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6 | THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 68 | 2020

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