Contents Turkey for Connoisseurs

Art and Antiquity Cover Story: Émigré’s Escape

Alexis Gritchenko’s avant-garde Istanbul, by Thomas Roueché and Rose Shepherd · 56

The Road to Pergamon

The famed photographer Don McCullin and writer Barnaby Rogerson set out to capture the brooding beauty of Rome’s Aegean legacy · 32

Connoisseur Precious Patterns London’s Islamic Sales · 5

An Alliance of Hearts The Empress Eugénie visits Sultan Abdülaziz, by Philip Mansel · 8

Off the Beaten Track

Vanishing Villages

Nicholas Haslam and Paul Veysseyre are captivated by the tumbledown houses of Eğirdir · 72

Where the Wild Things Are

Andrew Byfield recalls happy days plant-hunting in the Taurus Mountains · 90

Café Come Home

Andrew Finkel on the coffee houses of Istanbul. Photo essay by Monica Fritz · 104

Books

Wildly Beautiful Martyn Rix on a book of Mediterranean flora · 13

Ottoman Voices Philip Mansel on a wealth of new memoirs · 18

The Other Side of the Coin Works that take the bias out of Balkan history, by David Barchard · 20

Forget about the Ruins Jason Goodwin on the grandfather of the modern travel book · 21 Some Corner of a Foreign Field Conrad Thake on the story of a fantastical cemetery in Malta · 22

Taking Flight Richard Porter pores over a magnificent tome on Anatolia’s birdlife · 28

Cookery Health to the Body, Food to the Soul Berrin Torolsan conjures up magically simple sherbets and sorbets · 118

From Our Correspondents Istanbul: Private View, by Andrew Finkel · 10 Central Asia: Missing you already, by Caroline Eden · 110 Anatolia: A thoroughly modern museum, by Roger Norman · 112 The Mediterranean: Splendid isolation, by Rupert Scott · 114

Eating in: A Wok on the wild side, by Andrew Finkel · 117

Postscript

Genius, wit and charm Roger Norman pays tribute to the late historian Norman Stone · 126

Cover Still Life with Agave, by Alexis Gritchenko, 1915–18 (see ‘Emigré’s Escape’, page 56) © National Art Museum of Ukraine, Kyiv