Issue 69 2020 CONTENTS
30 DE GUSTIBUS NOUS AVONS CHANGÉ TOUT CELA Hugh Johnson faces up to some of the challenges to wine’s established order.
100 FERMENT THE SCHOOL OF NATURAL WINEMAKING Rather than getting hung up on legal definitions, we should think of natural wine as a philosophy or “school,” says Roger Morris.
104 FACE TO FACE MAURIZIO ZANELLA: CHARM AND DISRUPTIVE ENERGY Margaret Rand meets the entrepreneurial spirit behind the pioneering Franciacorta producer Ca’ del Bosco.
108 BURGUNDY PORTRAIT DAVID CROIX Jon Wyand photographs the winemaker at his domaine in Beaune.
110 WINE AND WORDS TASTING NOTES: CENTRAL OTAGO Judy O’Kane’s latest New Zealand-set poem.
112 TORO: THE ROAD TO RESTRAINT Margaret Rand finds surprising new balance in the Tempranillos of the hot, dry Spanish region.
120 BASEL: ONE CITY, THREE COUNTRIES, AND 57 WINES Bruce Schoenfeld explores the wine scene in the cosmopolitan Swiss city.
128 CLAY: WHAT IT IS AND WHY IT MATTERS Alex Maltman’s in-depth study of a crucial soil type that is both familiar and mysterious.
138 SYMPOSIUM QUERCIABELLA DINNER: FOR THE LOVE OF WINE Margaret Rand enjoys a dinner hosted by the Tuscan estate at London’s 67 Pall Mall.
140 ON THE VINE GUSBOURNE: THIS BLESSED PLOT Simon Field MW visits a Kentish rising star of English sparkling wine.
144 GENIUS LOCI LIEBFRAUMILCH: A GERMAN ICON COMES FULL CIRCLE Anne Krebiehl MW on attempts to re-establish the famous Rheinhessen wine’s good name.
154 VINIFERA THE XAREL·LO FACTOR: A MEDITERRANEAN STORY Miquel Hudin on a Catalan white grape variety that is now making fine dry white wines, as well as being a significant player in Cava.
160 VIN VOYAGE MOLDOVA: REDISCOVERY OF A BLACK SEA GEM Victoria Daskal returns to the country of her birth to explore its fascinating wine culture. Photography
Joyphuem in rap
4 | THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 69 | 2020