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48 it cohab AGE HOLDS NO FEAR FOR VÄXBO LIN OWNERS HANNA AND JACOB BRUCE Made to last selv edge .org Hanna and Jacob Bruce believe things get better with age, that includes houses, companies even fabrics. Especially fabrics, as they are the owners of Växbo Lin the only remaining l inen mill in Scandinavia. They live in a small red-painted 18th century cottage called ‘Målars’ together with their children and while things may look idyllic now, reaching this level of calm and comfort was a long journey. They worked hard to renovate the building using handcrafted techniques and natural materials. The result is a modern home with its traditional atmosphere intact. The couple left a comfortable city-life in Stockholm and moved north to the small village of Rengsjö in the rural area of Hälsingland for the sake of the Växbo Lin company. And their passionate interest in flax and linen, as well as a vision of linen production being a sustainable business for the future, has transformed the old mill into an important business on a European scale; the age-old quality of Växbo Lin towels and the unmistakable Scandi-style of their design has proved a winning combination. Running Växbo Lin is a lifestyle choice says Jacob, “You have to love what you are doing. You have to be dedicated to the material, the products, the area and the way the community functions up here in the north. It is different from living in a big city like Stockholm. You get to know the people here very well and they show a genuine interest in your life.” “We gained a business which was barely Anna Kern 5 5 g l o b a l Shuttle tour TRAVEL THE WEAVERS’ ROAD IN AUSTRIA Illustrations by Christopher Corr There is a road called Weberstrasse – Weavers’ Road – running through the beautiful countryside north of the Danube and south of the Bohemian Forest (part of the Mühlviertel region). From the Middle Ages until the end of the 19th century flax was grown in this region. The fibres of the flax plant (commonly Linum usitatissimum) were spun and woven into cloth. The flax seeds were pressed to yield precious linseed oil in the mills along the local river, the Mühl. For centuries linen production was the most important regional trade. Many local farmers and weavers cultivated flax and produced linen in large enough quantities not only to supply local demand but also to export widely, bringing great prosperity to the region. But from 1784, when the Englishman Edmund Cartwright invented the first mechanical loom, changes in production brought great social upheaval. As industrialization replaced the handloom, local weaver communities abandoned old work practices. Today the manufacture of linen in local workshops is undergoing a renaissance. In village after village along the Weberstrasse surviving and newly founded manufacturers of linen are weaving once more – although some use imported flax from other European growers because the huge Moldova dam across the Czech border has altered the climate and the growing conditions for flax. How is it that linen, in competition with so many other textile fibres, has maintained its place as one of the world’s most cherished materials? The beauty of linen lies in its natural characteristics – the robustness of its fibres lend it extraordinary longevity. Its non-allergenic nature makes it ideal for the most sensitive skin and its anti-static properties repel dust and dirt. Flax fibres absorb moisture but dry fast. The cloth drapes well and is comfortable to wear. As consumers grow more eco-conscious, flax proves to be the most environmentally friendly of all textiles fibres. Growing it does not diminish the soil, its production does not harm the eco-system and finished products are biodegradable. Travelling along the Weavers’ Road, one experiences centuries of traditional spinning, weaving and dyeing techniques, but alive to today’s taste and design. In July weavers from across the Mühlviertel are joined by others from around the world. This ‘Weavers’ Market’ takes place annually in the historic town of Haslach, itself the centre of the weaving tradition. Haslach is home to the Weaving College, founded in 1883. It is an integral part of ‘Textile Kultur Haslach’ – a forum to advance contemporary weaving practice. s e l v e d g e . o r g 7 7 c o h a bit An old hand MARIE-PIERRE GENEST OF LES TOILES BLANCHES TRANSFORMS ANTIQUE LINENS Can you tell us about your background? When I was younger I was a journalist and wrote about design but after having two children in my late 30s I felt the urge to do something with my hands. Textiles were the obvious choice. Maybe because my mother was an upholsterer, her father was a weaver and my father's grandmother was a linen keeper at the court of Napoleon III. Did you teach yourself how to sew or have you studied textiles? I taught myself how to sew but was still unable to do more serious things like drawing patterns. I took a ‘cours du soir’ five years ago, a tough one-year course organised by the Mairie de Paris, to learn how to make patterns. I was lucky enough to get a fantastic teacher. At the same time, I began sewing soft toys and accessories. Where do you find your inspiration? First of all, I touch my fabrics. Hand-woven hemps and linens don’t have a perfectly straight warp and weft, it adds something that attracts me irresistibly. I feel them, look at little details, mended parts, a simple French seam and ideas start coming. I also look at old school photos, they are like lives into which I can sink. Generally, I like clothing from the Middle Ages to the mid-20th century, especially the simple wide shape of peasants’ clothes. Working clothes, things in daily use, kitchen towels inspire me. I’m fascinated by the embroidered laundry marks on sheets, how women used and saved linen from the time it was woven until it became rags. What do you listen to as you work? When I am drawing, I listen to Johnny Cash, Leonard Cohen or Bach. Their rhythm is something I like to lean on. But when I am sewing I listen to the radio. Are there any particular designers that you admire? I admire the work of Bruno Munari, who had such a beautiful, simple style and created brilliant books for children. I also admire the furniture designers and architects of the 50s; Charlotte Perriand, Jean Prouvé, Pierre Guariche and Serge Mouille. People who built extraordinary things with simple lines and raw, inexpensive materials. Is there a particular era you identify with? The end of the 19th century fascinates me, the point when industrial society began to emerge – the meeting of two worlds. I like Paul Strand’s photos of New York, the lines of the rising buildings, the railways, the smoke of the factories. My great grandmother lived and built her own business at that time. She was a working woman but always formally, immaculately dressed. Another era I like is the 50s – post-war reconstruction when everything was possible, cheap and extremely creative. Do you feel there is a growing interest in textile skills? I feel there is a need to make original things. For me dyeing, textile printing, embroidery and hand weaving are like a gardener getting their hands dirty. Do you have any projects or new products planned for 2011? I am working on children's costumes and on another old textile skill – patchwork. Do you ever collaborate with others on projects? For the limited series I do, I collaborate with a workshop where the women can take the time to mend the antique sheets, they carefully cut each piece to use the embroidered part or the openwork to their best advantage. For the handmade dolls and rabbits I share the work with two seamstresses. Because their faces are handembroidered, no 34 attire s e l v e d g e . o r g 3 5 a t t i r e selv edge.org 64 ire insight insp inform selv edge.org s e l v e d g e . o r g Selvedge is feeling blue... Join us at National Trust property, Fenton House in Hampstead, for an Indigo study day beginning with the first UK screening of Mary Lance’s feature-length documentary, Blue Alchemy. This beautifully shot film, which was five years in the making, will be followed by a talk by renowned indigo expert, author and project consultant Jenny Balfour Paul. Also joining us at the charming 17th century merchant's house will be designer and founder of Khadi and Co, Bess Nielsen, who will present a selection of her wonderful indigo textiles to buy or simply admire. 1.30-5.30pm, Tuesday 6th September 2011, tickets £55, concessions £45 see website for details, includes entrance to the house, tea and ‘naturally dyed’ cakes. Fenton House, Hampstead, NW3 6SP, for tickets please contact T: +44 (0)20 8341 9721 or visit www.selvedge.org, Quick Organic Indigo Vats, a three day masterclass at the Festival of Quilts. Michel Garcia works with natural dyers around the world to revive eco-friendly dyeing techniques without the use of chemicals. During this class participants will discover ways of preparing quick indigo vats, using fruit peels, mixes of plants and sugar, for fast results and attractive shades. To watch an interview with Michel or to book your place visit www.twistedthread.com, The Festival of Quilts, 11-14 August 2011, The NEC, Birmingham, T: +44 (0)20 8692 2299 Indigo: Egyptian MummiestoBlueJeans A new edition of Jenny Balfour-Paul’s classic study of Indigo will be released by the British Museum Press this summer. Indigo covers all aspects of the subject from historical, agricultural and botanic to commercial, economic and sociological. A new final chapter brings the story of this magical dye up to date. The British Museum Press is offering Selvedge readers 20% off the RRP of £19.99. Visit www.britishmuseumshoponline.org and enter promotional code SELV20. Alternatively, call T: +44 (0)20 7079 0924 to pre-order your copy quoting Selvedge. Offer valid 2 September 2011–2 December 2011, includes p&p. Briana Blasko photographed Indigo workers while collaborating with Harsha Dehejia and the Prince of Wales Museum in Mumbai on the exhibition Fabric Art of Krishna. www.brianablasko.com 6 5 g l o b a l s e l v e d g e . o r g 5 ATTIRE critical reporting of fashion trends 28 COVER STORY Head start The many benefits of a stylish scarf Design journalist Amelia Thorpe enjoysNickyAlbrechtsenandFolaSolanke’snewbook‘Scarves’ 42 COVER STORY Bathing beauties When rubber swim caps were all the rage BethSmithtakesastep backintimetodiscoverstylishswimminghatsfromthepastandthemoderndayrevival 45 COVER STORY The Waterman’s tale The true inventor of the wetsuit MikeWallacetracksdownthe realstorybehindthisunderwatergarment EVENTS 65 Selvedge is feeling blue At Fenton House Hampstead, Tuesday 6th September, 1.30-5.30pm, our indigo and woad study day will include lectures from Jenny Balfour-Paul and Bess Nielson, a screening of the documentary film BlueAlchemyand practical demonstrations from Woad inc 53 The Selvedge Autumn Fair The fourth installment of Selvedge’s own fair... Add 17th September to your diary and we’ll look forward to seeing you there WIN 80 Prizes this month include... Five pairs of tickets to the Festival of Quilts in August, Two copies of Scarves by Nicky Albrechtsen and Fola Solanke, a family ticket to the Giffords Circus and five sets of naturally dyed woad DMC Mouliné skeins... Good luck! in f o r m INFORM the latest news, reviews and exhibition listings 03 bias /contributors A letter from the editor in chief and rainy day suggestions from members of the Selvedge team 07 news Stamp of approval William Morris, Lisa Stickley at Heal’s, Paperworks at the Civic, Ouma Production’s charpoy, Rosalind Wyatt at Art in Action, Szalay Design, Janet Echelman’s installation at San Francisco International Airport 09 need to know Nelson’s Trafalgar Uniform Coat at the National Maritime Museum. 11 how to Lotta Jansdotter teaches us how to make a picnic tote, perfect for a child’s party or any gathering... 80 subscription offers This issue, a poppy-red summer headscarf for every new subscriber and renewal 83 Noticeboard Our annual ‘Illustrate your point’ and ‘word perfect’ competitions and share your views with a readers survey 84 listings Exhibitions, fairs, and events taking place around the world in July and August 86 Books Alexander McQueen: GeniusofaGenerationreview by Sarah Gasson, Isabella Blow review by Sarah Jane Downing 88 view Heirlooms, Tracey Emin: Love is What You Want, Françoise Dupré: Autre Mers and Jilly Edwards: Reflections 93 resources Websites, reading lists and sources for those who want to find out more about the Coastal Issue 95 coming next The Murder Mystery Issue: Uncovering textiles with strange tales to tell, Miss Marple to Sherlock Holmes, The Orient Express, Fine Cell work and more... SELVEDGE ('selnid3 ) n. 1. finished di fferently 2. the non-fraying edge of a length of woven fabric. [: from SELF + EDGE] s e l v e d g e . o r g

48

it cohab

AGE HOLDS NO FEAR FOR VÄXBO LIN OWNERS HANNA AND JACOB BRUCE Made to last selv edge .org

Hanna and Jacob Bruce believe things get better with age, that includes houses, companies even fabrics. Especially fabrics, as they are the owners of Växbo Lin the only remaining l inen mill in Scandinavia.

They live in a small red-painted 18th century cottage called ‘Målars’ together with their children and while things may look idyllic now, reaching this level of calm and comfort was a long journey. They worked hard to renovate the building using handcrafted techniques and natural materials. The result is a modern home with its traditional atmosphere intact.

The couple left a comfortable city-life in Stockholm and moved north to the small village of Rengsjö in the rural area of Hälsingland for the sake of the Växbo Lin company. And their passionate interest in flax and linen, as well as a vision of linen production being a sustainable business for the future, has transformed the old mill into an important business on a European scale; the age-old quality of

Växbo Lin towels and the unmistakable Scandi-style of their design has proved a winning combination.

Running Växbo Lin is a lifestyle choice says Jacob, “You have to love what you are doing. You have to be dedicated to the material, the products, the area and the way the community functions up here in the north. It is different from living in a big city like Stockholm. You get to know the people here very well and they show a genuine interest in your life.”

“We gained a business which was barely Anna Kern

5 5

g l o b a l

Shuttle tour TRAVEL THE WEAVERS’ ROAD IN AUSTRIA

Illustrations by Christopher Corr

There is a road called Weberstrasse – Weavers’ Road – running through the beautiful countryside north of the Danube and south of the Bohemian Forest (part of the Mühlviertel region). From the Middle Ages until the end of the 19th century flax was grown in this region. The fibres of the flax plant (commonly Linum usitatissimum) were spun and woven into cloth. The flax seeds were pressed to yield precious linseed oil in the mills along the local river, the Mühl.

For centuries linen production was the most important regional trade. Many local farmers and weavers cultivated flax and produced linen in large enough quantities not only to supply local demand but also to export widely, bringing great prosperity to the region. But from 1784, when the Englishman Edmund Cartwright invented the first mechanical loom, changes in production brought great social upheaval. As industrialization replaced the handloom, local weaver communities abandoned old work practices.

Today the manufacture of linen in local workshops is undergoing a renaissance. In village after village along the Weberstrasse surviving and newly founded manufacturers of linen are weaving once more – although some use imported flax from other European growers because the huge Moldova dam across the Czech border has altered the climate and the growing conditions for flax.

How is it that linen, in competition with so many other textile fibres, has maintained its place as one of the world’s most cherished materials? The beauty of linen lies in its natural characteristics – the robustness of its fibres lend it extraordinary longevity. Its non-allergenic nature makes it ideal for the most sensitive skin and its anti-static properties repel dust and dirt. Flax fibres absorb moisture but dry fast. The cloth drapes well and is comfortable to wear. As consumers grow more eco-conscious, flax proves to be the most environmentally friendly of all textiles fibres. Growing it does not diminish the soil, its production does not harm the eco-system and finished products are biodegradable.

Travelling along the Weavers’ Road, one experiences centuries of traditional spinning, weaving and dyeing techniques, but alive to today’s taste and design. In July weavers from across the Mühlviertel are joined by others from around the world. This ‘Weavers’ Market’ takes place annually in the historic town of Haslach, itself the centre of the weaving tradition. Haslach is home to the Weaving College, founded in 1883. It is an integral part of ‘Textile Kultur Haslach’ – a forum to advance contemporary weaving practice.

s e l v e d g e . o r g

7 7

c o h a bit

An old hand MARIE-PIERRE GENEST OF LES TOILES BLANCHES TRANSFORMS ANTIQUE LINENS

Can you tell us about your background? When I was younger I was a journalist and wrote about design but after having two children in my late 30s I felt the urge to do something with my hands. Textiles were the obvious choice. Maybe because my mother was an upholsterer, her father was a weaver and my father's grandmother was a linen keeper at the court of Napoleon III. Did you teach yourself how to sew or have you studied textiles? I taught myself how to sew but was still unable to do more serious things like drawing patterns. I took a ‘cours du soir’ five years ago, a tough one-year course organised by the Mairie de Paris, to learn how to make patterns. I was lucky enough to get a fantastic teacher. At the same time, I began sewing soft toys and accessories. Where do you find your inspiration? First of all, I touch my fabrics. Hand-woven hemps and linens don’t have a perfectly straight warp and weft, it adds something that attracts me irresistibly. I feel them, look at little details, mended parts, a simple French seam and ideas start coming. I also look at old school photos, they are like lives into which I can sink. Generally, I like clothing from the Middle Ages to the mid-20th century, especially the simple wide shape of peasants’ clothes. Working clothes, things in daily use, kitchen towels inspire me. I’m fascinated by the embroidered laundry marks on sheets, how women used and saved linen from the time it was woven until it became rags. What do you listen to as you work? When I am drawing, I listen to Johnny Cash, Leonard Cohen or Bach. Their rhythm is something I like to lean on. But when I am sewing I listen to the radio.

Are there any particular designers that you admire? I admire the work of Bruno Munari, who had such a beautiful, simple style and created brilliant books for children. I also admire the furniture designers and architects of the 50s; Charlotte Perriand, Jean Prouvé, Pierre Guariche and Serge Mouille. People who built extraordinary things with simple lines and raw, inexpensive materials. Is there a particular era you identify with? The end of the 19th century fascinates me, the point when industrial society began to emerge – the meeting of two worlds. I like Paul Strand’s photos of New York, the lines of the rising buildings, the railways, the smoke of the factories. My great grandmother lived and built her own business at that time. She was a working woman but always formally, immaculately dressed. Another era I like is the 50s – post-war reconstruction when everything was possible, cheap and extremely creative. Do you feel there is a growing interest in textile skills? I feel there is a need to make original things. For me dyeing, textile printing, embroidery and hand weaving are like a gardener getting their hands dirty. Do you have any projects or new products planned for 2011? I am working on children's costumes and on another old textile skill – patchwork. Do you ever collaborate with others on projects? For the limited series I do, I collaborate with a workshop where the women can take the time to mend the antique sheets, they carefully cut each piece to use the embroidered part or the openwork to their best advantage. For the handmade dolls and rabbits I share the work with two seamstresses. Because their faces are handembroidered, no

34

attire s e l v e d g e . o r g

3 5

a t t i r e selv edge.org

64

ire insight insp inform selv edge.org s e l v e d g e . o r g

Selvedge is feeling blue... Join us at National Trust property, Fenton House in Hampstead, for an Indigo study day beginning with the first UK screening of Mary Lance’s feature-length documentary, Blue Alchemy. This beautifully shot film, which was five years in the making, will be followed by a talk by renowned indigo expert, author and project consultant Jenny Balfour Paul. Also joining us at the charming 17th century merchant's house will be designer and founder of Khadi and Co, Bess Nielsen, who will present a selection of her wonderful indigo textiles to buy or simply admire. 1.30-5.30pm, Tuesday 6th September 2011, tickets £55, concessions £45 see website for details, includes entrance to the house, tea and ‘naturally dyed’ cakes. Fenton House, Hampstead, NW3 6SP, for tickets please contact T: +44 (0)20 8341 9721 or visit www.selvedge.org,

Quick Organic Indigo Vats, a three day masterclass at the Festival of Quilts. Michel Garcia works with natural dyers around the world to revive eco-friendly dyeing techniques without the use of chemicals. During this class participants will discover ways of preparing quick indigo vats, using fruit peels, mixes of plants and sugar, for fast results and attractive shades. To watch an interview with Michel or to book your place visit www.twistedthread.com, The Festival of Quilts, 11-14 August 2011, The NEC, Birmingham, T: +44 (0)20 8692 2299

Indigo: Egyptian MummiestoBlueJeans A new edition of Jenny Balfour-Paul’s classic study of Indigo will be released by the British Museum Press this summer. Indigo covers all aspects of the subject from historical, agricultural and botanic to commercial, economic and sociological. A new final chapter brings the story of this magical dye up to date. The British Museum Press is offering Selvedge readers 20% off the RRP of £19.99. Visit www.britishmuseumshoponline.org and enter promotional code SELV20. Alternatively, call T: +44 (0)20 7079 0924 to pre-order your copy quoting Selvedge. Offer valid 2 September 2011–2 December 2011, includes p&p.

Briana Blasko photographed Indigo workers while collaborating with Harsha Dehejia and the Prince of Wales Museum in Mumbai on the exhibition Fabric Art of Krishna. www.brianablasko.com

6 5

g l o b a l s e l v e d g e . o r g

5

ATTIRE critical reporting of fashion trends 28 COVER STORY Head start The many benefits of a stylish scarf Design journalist Amelia Thorpe enjoysNickyAlbrechtsenandFolaSolanke’snewbook‘Scarves’ 42 COVER STORY Bathing beauties When rubber swim caps were all the rage BethSmithtakesastep backintimetodiscoverstylishswimminghatsfromthepastandthemoderndayrevival 45 COVER STORY The Waterman’s tale The true inventor of the wetsuit MikeWallacetracksdownthe realstorybehindthisunderwatergarment

EVENTS 65 Selvedge is feeling blue At Fenton House Hampstead, Tuesday 6th September, 1.30-5.30pm, our indigo and woad study day will include lectures from Jenny Balfour-Paul and Bess Nielson, a screening of the documentary film BlueAlchemyand practical demonstrations from Woad inc 53 The Selvedge Autumn Fair The fourth installment of Selvedge’s own fair... Add 17th September to your diary and we’ll look forward to seeing you there

WIN 80 Prizes this month include... Five pairs of tickets to the Festival of Quilts in August, Two copies of Scarves by Nicky Albrechtsen and Fola Solanke, a family ticket to the Giffords Circus and five sets of naturally dyed woad DMC Mouliné skeins... Good luck!

in f o r m

INFORM the latest news, reviews and exhibition listings

03 bias /contributors A letter from the editor in chief and rainy day suggestions from members of the Selvedge team 07 news Stamp of approval William Morris, Lisa Stickley at Heal’s, Paperworks at the Civic, Ouma Production’s charpoy, Rosalind Wyatt at Art in Action, Szalay Design, Janet Echelman’s installation at San Francisco International Airport 09 need to know Nelson’s Trafalgar Uniform Coat at the National Maritime Museum. 11 how to Lotta Jansdotter teaches us how to make a picnic tote, perfect for a child’s party or any gathering... 80 subscription offers This issue, a poppy-red summer headscarf for every new subscriber and renewal 83 Noticeboard Our annual ‘Illustrate your point’ and ‘word perfect’ competitions and share your views with a readers survey 84 listings Exhibitions, fairs, and events taking place around the world in July and August 86 Books Alexander McQueen: GeniusofaGenerationreview by

Sarah Gasson, Isabella Blow review by Sarah Jane Downing 88 view Heirlooms, Tracey Emin: Love is What You Want, Françoise Dupré: Autre Mers and Jilly Edwards: Reflections 93 resources Websites, reading lists and sources for those who want to find out more about the Coastal Issue 95 coming next The Murder Mystery Issue: Uncovering textiles with strange tales to tell, Miss Marple to Sherlock Holmes, The Orient Express, Fine Cell work and more...

SELVEDGE ('selnid3 ) n. 1. finished di fferently 2. the non-fraying edge of a length of woven fabric. [: from SELF + EDGE]

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