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Issue 70 2020 CONTENTS

Features

40 DE GUSTIBUS CHAPPELLET: HEAVENLY MUSIC ON PRITCHARD HILL Hugh Johnson on his enduring fondness for the wines, people, and location of a Napa estate.

108 FACE TO FACE WILL HARLAN: VIEW FROM A PROMONTORY Margaret Rand meets the son of Bill Harlan as he completes his takeover of the family firm.

112 BURGUNDY PORTRAIT BAPTISTE AND CLÉMENCE DUBRULLE Jon Wyand photographs Baptiste and Clémence Dubrulle at their Domaine de la Folie overlooking the Saône near Bouzeron.

114 WINE & ART TABLEAU PÉTILLANT: CHAMPAGNE’S ARTISTIC DEBUT Tom Stevenson on Jean François de Troy’s Le Déjeuner d’Huîtres or The Oyster Luncheon

(1735), which is known for being the first painting to depict sparkling Champagne.

118 THEN & NOW THE SAINTSBURY CLUB: DINING FOR THE LOVE OF WINE AND WORDS Kathleen Burk tells the story of a dining club that bridges the worlds of wine and literature.

130 CATALAN ENLIGHTENMENT Miquel Hudin reports on a change of winemaking culture—and style—in Priorat.

136 THE EVOLVING STORY OF THE DOURO BOYS Margaret Rand meets the winemaking fraternity that has led the Portuguese region’s table-wine revolution.

142 WINES FOR THE COZY SEASON Winter feels like the perfect time to drink wise and searching reds, says Terry Theise, which for him includes very old Rioja and Nebbiolo.

8 | THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 70 | 2020

150 ON THE VINE DOMAINE EMILE BEYER: GUARDIANS OF THE GARDEN Anne Krebiehl MW meets Christian and Valérie Beyer at their Alsace estate.

156 VINIFERA IN SEARCH OF JUAN GARCÍA Simon Loftus hunts down a neglected Iberian red grape variety and tastes its apotheosis.

160 VIN VOYAGE FRIULI-VENEZIA GIULIA: WINE WITHOUT BORDERS The north Italian region is a melting pot of different vinous cultures, says Robin Lee.

Mont-Redon

166 UNDERGROUND DOMESTIC SERVICE: HOW TO KEEP & SERVE WINE AT HOME Victoria Daskal begins her definitive two-part series on wine preservation. Photography of Château cour tesy

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