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Contents Turkey for Connoisseurs Travellers’ Tales Cover Story Adventures of the Three Donketeers Anatolia on foot 40 years ago, by Christopher Trillo · 42 Central Asia From Steppe to Snow to Desert Sands The Fabric of Life: Ergun Çağatay’s Epic Journey Caroline Eden introduces a new book by the celebrated photographer · 106 In the Realm of the Ice Queen Chris Gardner tracks the ancient flora of the Silk Road · 114 King of the Gobi John Hare on how the two-humped wild camel was saved from extinction · 128 Art and Architecture Living the Ottoman Dream Berrin Torolsan is enchanted by the House of Hindliyan · 24 Behind Palace Doors Philip Mansel on the fascinating go-between who revealed the Topkapı to Enlightenment Europe · 80 Connoisseur Life after Life A tribute to Suna Kıraç, founder of the Pera Museum · 5 Motifs and Motives The meanings and origins of designs, by Venetia Porter · 8 The Art of Letter Writing Tim Stanley on the father of Turkish calligraphy · 10 Plus exhibition and saleroom highlights · 12 Books A Long Journey Rosamond E Mack on Bellini’s influential portrait of Mehmed the Conqueror · 19 A Magnificent Süleyman Julian Raby on a newly discovered portrait of the Sultan in his prime · 21 Right Royal Double Act Barnaby Rogerson on Alexander the Great and his father · 22 Here’s to You, Mrs Robinson David Barchard on the colourful life of an East End widow · 23 Cookery Sweet Endings Berrin Torolsan on hoşaf, the Turkish compote, a perfect finale to any meal · 134 From Our Correspondents Istanbul Diary Private view, by Andrew Finkel · 16 Concerts Virtuoso reality, by John Shakespeare Dyson · 143 Restaurants Mega bites, by Andrew Finkel · 144 Film Beauty and the bees, by Christopher Trillo · 148 Postscript David Barchard 1947–2020 Roger Norman and Patricia Daunt pay tribute to a fine journalist and scholar · 146 Cover On the road, Anatolia 1981, by Stephen Scoffham (see ‘Adventures of the Three Donketeers’, page 42)

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