Turkey for Connoisseurs

Contents

The Earthquake

The Fatal Flaw: reports from volunteers and writers, introduced by Norman Stone · 37

Rescue in the Rubble, by Ross Evans, Paul Holdcroft and Nigel Cooper · 39 The Voice that Must be Heard: a profile of Aykut Barka, by Andrew Finkel · 42

Living in Hope, by Suna Erdem · 46

Profile

The Brothers Mango: historians past and present, by David Barchard · 18

Art & Interiors

Rhapsody in Blue: the glory of Edirne’s forgotten tiles, by John Carswell · 48

Safranbolu: A Bourgeois Paradise, by Elizabeth Meath Baker · 58

Archaeology

Under the Volcano: James Mellaart looks back on his discovery of the 9,000-year-old wall paintings of Çatalhüyük · 76

People & Places

The Whittalls in Winter: a gentle life in Moda Bay, by Yolande Whittall · 102 Village Voices: the continuing saga of rural Dereköy, by Azize Ethem · 117

Cookery

Bringing Back Babylon: leek dishes from the simple to the exotic, by Berrin Torolsan · 106

Regular Features

Connoisseur

Eastern Overtures: Poland’s Ottoman inheritance, by Philip Mansel · 11

Collecting Carpets: The Rug Bug, by Philippa Scott · 25

Despatches: correspondents report from Istanbul, New York, Champaign-Urbana and Sydney · 29

Trade Secrets

Healing Art: the restorer Hadice Nalçabasmaz, by Elizabeth Meath Baker · 114

Travellers’ Tales

Wonders Never Cease: a visit to Halicarnassus, by Ilona Medvedeva · 125

Eating Out by Andrew Finkel · 130

Counterpoint

Dying Days of the Ottoman Harem: Suna Erdem reviews ‘Harem Soirée’ · 133

Swinging Back to the Sixties: the Istanbul Biennial, by Susan Platt · 134

Music on the Move: by Aisling Fallon · 136

Cover

Portrait of Mihrimah Sultan, daughter of Süleyman the Magnificent, 1541.

On loan from the National Museum, Warsaw, to the Istanbul Museum of Turkish and Islamic Art for the recent exhibition

‘War and Peace: Ottoman–Polish Relations in the 15th–19th Centuries’, reviewed on page 11.