Contents Turkey for Connoisseurs
Art and Architecture
Cover
Flights of Fantasy Lithian Ricci’s rainbow house on the Golden Horn, by Berrin Torolsan · 42
The Ottoman exile of a Swedish king
Saved by the Royal Bed Philip Mansel on the eye-opening legacy of Charles XII · 54
Cornelius Loos: the Marvellous Eye of the King’s Artist Robert Ousterhout wonders at Cornelius Loos’s drawings of Ayasofya in 1711 · 78 Rome’s Turkish Secret Rooftop Orientalism in the Villa Medici, by Paolo Girardelli · 104
Travel
Age of Innocence An idyllic childhood in Fifties Turkey, by Tony Hallas · 84
Connoisseur
Mistaken Identities Julian Raby on the true Roxelana · 8 Orbs and Orbits On colour and memory: Etel Adnan, by Thomas Roueché · 16
Women’s Own Artists emerge from the shadows, by Andrew Finkel · 18 Losing the Art of Living in Hope Old meets new at the Sakıp Sabancı · 20
Books
Rupert Scott on the Dilettanti’s grand expedition to Ionia · 23 Robert Ousterhout on the buried charms of the sultans’ first capital · 26
Jennifer Wearden on the lasting lure of Greek Island embroideries · 28
Maureen Freely on the fervour of Mary Mills Patrick · 29
Thomas Roueché on satire in Bolshevik Baku · 31 Barnaby Rogerson on a celebration of ancient Caria · 32 The Empire Line The Ottoman railway revolution, by Mehmet Kentel · 34
Food
Going with the Grain Berrin Torolsan on the nutty joys of bulgur, an Anatolian staple · 112
The Smile that Launched a Thousand Shish Andrew Finkel on Beyti Güler’s unique restaurant · 120
From Our Correspondents Concerts Streaming consciousness, by John Shakespeare Dyson · 128
Film Dogumentary (or It’s a Dog’s Life) by Christopher Trillo · 130
Private View Andrew Finkel’s Istanbul diary · 131 The View from Central Asia Caroline Eden on a very Kyrgyz coup · 132
Letter from Anatolia Roger Norman on a feisty football club · 136
Postscript
The ‘Immortal’ Cyril Mango Robert Ousterhout pays tribute to the great Byzantinist · 134
Cover The Italian artist Lithian Ricci’s dining room, Istanbul. Photograph by Monica Fritz (see ‘Flights of Fantasy’, page 42)
