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FEATURES 68 Austria Salzburgerland provides lungfuls of fresh Austrian air at its most natural: lakes, peaks, hikes, heartfelt songs and naked saunas 84 AlUla: Trip Planner This ancient north-western Saudi Arabian city is ready to welcome travellers again – we show you the best ways to rediscover it 106 Deserts Earth’s vast, diverse dry spaces are great for travellers to get lost in (but not too lost, please). We reveal our 15 favourites 126 Åland Islands Sandwiched between Finland and Sweden, this Baltic-lapped archipelago remains one of Europe’s most intriguing outposts 142 The US Civil Rights Trail Covering most of the USA’s South, this sprawling route tells


a powerful, moving story. The trail’s guidebook writer takes us to some of the key stops 160 Seattle Enjoy the energy – and coffee – of this arty north-western city, before exploring the pristine nature of Washington state

DISCOVER 170 Double Bill The lesser-visited Portuguese pair of Coimbra and Aveiro combine ancient learning and lagoon living 172 Hidden USA We explore Oregon’s wild beaches and hipster capital Portland

176 Indigenous Culture We relish the splendid diversity of South Africa’s Rainbow Nation 178 World Heritage The UNESCO-listed Jesuit Missions of Paraguay gives visitors an insight into South American history and the Guaraní people 180 British Break Northumberland is brimming with wild, empty countryside, raw coastal scenery, ancient history and amazing kippers 184 Off The Grid …Dakar, Senegal. Africa’s westernmost point is a friendly introduction to the region 188 European Short Break Iceland’s East has all the fjords, mountains and volcanoes of the West – but without the crowds 194 The View From Above Gazing across Toledo’s UNESCO-listed Old Town

Oregon 172



43 Monument Valley

Guatemala 40



Alladale 50

Portugal 170

Dakar 184

Åland Islands 126

Austria 68

Egypt 106

Mongolia 106

Saudi Arabia 84

106 India

Thailand 24


South Korea

44 Vietnam



Paraguay 178

Chile 106

Namibia 106

South Africa 176


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