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CONTENTS INDULGE textiles to buy, collect or simply admire 37 SALES ROOM REPORT Fine Chinese Textiles at Bonhams by Linda Wrigglesworth 54 TEXTILE TOWNS Birmingham Cut Steel by Sarah Jane Downing, illustrated by Alice Pattullo 78 SHOP TALK Jane Audas goes Shopping at Evoke 96 SWATCH Clean Clothes no 10 Sequins by Sarah Jane Downing, illustrated by Georgina McAusland GLOBAL textiles from around the world 44 SISTERHOOD Textiles in Pre-Raphaelite Paintings by Sarah Jane Downing 60 A SHOW OF HANDS Les Petites Mains, Haute Couture Embroidery in Paris by Rebecca Devaney 64 A LIFE’S WORK Réné Bégué and Rébé, Embroidey by Nadia Albertini ANECDOTE textiles that touch our lives 20 TRUE STRIPES Kutnia Cloth from Gaziantep,Turkey by Dominic Lutyens, photographer Ekin Ozbicer 24 SEEING IS BELIEVING The Beguiling Work of Bushra Waqas Khan by Dua Abbas Rizvi 48 FREEZE FRAME James Tissot: A Modern Ambiguity by Rebecca Devaney 34 ADORNED IN DREAMS A Brush with Glamour by Virginia Postrel, illustrated by Macruba Busato ATTIRE critical reporting of fashion trends 14 SPEAKING VOLUMES Exaggerated Shapes, Fashion Goes Big by Lydia Caston, illustrated by Paula Sanz Caballero 29 STAYING IN A History of Indoor Footwear in Western Fashion by Nishi Bassi 40 BOOK SMART Writing About Clothes by Miranda Mills 52 KILLER HATS A Very Unnatural History by Malcolm Smith 68 A BIGGER SPLASH Mermaid Dresses and Mythical Tails by Deborah Nash 72 FASHION IN FILM Manolo Blahnik by Christopher Laverty INDUSTRY from craft to commerce 10 SAILING BY Valentino Launches their Collection from the Venecian Arsenale by Kate Cavendish 26 THE PATINA OF LIFE The Backward Vendor by Deborah Beau; photographer Joe Kerr, photographer assistant George Powers; character Farn Gary & Adam Larkin; makeup Chiharu Wakabayashi; hair Toni & Guy Team; style assistant Christy Higgs, Phoebe John & Ruby Padfield 56 A RARE BIRD INDEED Prune Faux Plumassiere by Deborah Beau, photographed by Joanna Maclennan SELVEDGE 2 p10-11 p18-19 p32-33 p38-39
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p42-43 p50-51 COHABIT stunning interiors beautifully photographed 74 THE FABLED THREAD Eppie Thompson’s Exuberant Home by Clare Lewis EVENTS dates for your diary 20 October Caring For Your Clothes, with Orsola de Castro, Hikaru Noguchi & Zenzie Tinker 10 November Textile Tokens, with Ariane Fennetaux, Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood, John Styles & Megan Griffiths 6 & 7 November Ugandan Barkcloth, Workshop with Lesli Robertson 8 -12 November Crafting Your Brand Intensive, with Marcella Echavarría & Polly Leonard 8 & 9 January Sashiko Stitching, Workshop with Atsushi Futatsuya 29 & 30 January Hand-Sewn 18th-century Pleats and Gathers, Workshop with Sarah Woodyard of Sewn Company PRIZES THIS ISSUE & Twelve days of Christmas Give Away A Spirit of Threads Silk Scarf for the first fifty new gift subscribers www.spiritofthreads.com Clarissa Hulse bedlinen worth £500 • Heritage by Hand ruana worth £240 • Jo Gordon scarf worth £367 • Alice Caroline quilt kit worth £430 • Angie Lewin prints worth £500 • Yarn & Yathra House rug worth £150 • Bernette 37 sewing machine worth £439 • Pinhay Studios voucher worth £500 • Skinny laMinx kitchen bundle worth £462 • Lapuan Kankurit blankets worth £135 • OMA Space hemp bag, worth £390 • Anta cube worth £365 • p56-57 p64-65 INFORM the latest news, reviews and exhibition listings 05 BIAS/CONTRIBUTORS A letter from the founder, Polly Leonard 07 NEWS Spirit of Threads, Red Dress Project, Into the Dark Woods, Ferragamo Silk, Helga Stentzel, Rufina Bazlova 84 READ Olga De Amaral: To Weave a Rock by Anna Walker and Laura Mott published by Arnoldsche Verlagsanstalt October 2020 reviewed by Florencia Hurtado. Pucci Updated Edition by Vanessa Friedman published by Taschen March 2021 reviewed by Sue Prichard 86 VIEW Baghs-Abstract Gardens at The Brunei Gallery, SOAS University of London until 25 September reviewed by Ruby Wilson. CONTINUITIES 2000 Years of Abstract Art, Selected by Paul Hughes, Old Chapel Gallery, Duke of Somerset Estate until 24 October 2021 reviewed by Ptolemy Mann. TURANDOT and the Fantastic East, Museo del Tessuto Prado, Italy until 21 November 2021, reviewed by Berea Antaki. COMING NEXT KEEPING WARM: Textiles to Warm the Body and Soul SELVEDGE ('selvid3) n. 1. finished differently 2. the non-fraying edge of a length of woven fabric. [: from SELF + EDGE] SELVEDGE 3

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p42-43

p50-51

COHABIT stunning interiors beautifully photographed 74 THE FABLED THREAD Eppie Thompson’s Exuberant Home by Clare Lewis

EVENTS dates for your diary 20 October Caring For Your Clothes, with Orsola de Castro, Hikaru Noguchi & Zenzie Tinker 10 November Textile Tokens, with Ariane Fennetaux, Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood, John Styles & Megan Griffiths 6 & 7 November Ugandan Barkcloth, Workshop with Lesli Robertson 8 -12 November Crafting Your Brand Intensive, with Marcella Echavarría & Polly Leonard 8 & 9 January Sashiko Stitching, Workshop with Atsushi Futatsuya 29 & 30 January Hand-Sewn 18th-century Pleats and Gathers, Workshop with Sarah Woodyard of Sewn Company

PRIZES THIS ISSUE & Twelve days of Christmas Give Away A Spirit of Threads Silk Scarf for the first fifty new gift subscribers www.spiritofthreads.com

Clarissa Hulse bedlinen worth £500 • Heritage by Hand ruana worth £240 • Jo Gordon scarf worth £367 • Alice Caroline quilt kit worth £430 • Angie Lewin prints worth £500 • Yarn & Yathra House rug worth £150 • Bernette 37 sewing machine worth £439 • Pinhay Studios voucher worth £500 • Skinny laMinx kitchen bundle worth £462 • Lapuan Kankurit blankets worth £135 • OMA Space hemp bag, worth £390 • Anta cube worth £365 •

p56-57

p64-65

INFORM the latest news, reviews and exhibition listings

05 BIAS/CONTRIBUTORS A letter from the founder, Polly Leonard 07 NEWS Spirit of Threads, Red Dress Project, Into the Dark Woods, Ferragamo Silk, Helga Stentzel, Rufina Bazlova 84 READ Olga De Amaral: To Weave a Rock by Anna Walker and Laura Mott published by Arnoldsche Verlagsanstalt

October 2020 reviewed by Florencia Hurtado. Pucci Updated Edition by Vanessa Friedman published by Taschen March 2021 reviewed by Sue Prichard 86 VIEW Baghs-Abstract Gardens at The Brunei Gallery, SOAS University of London until 25 September reviewed by Ruby Wilson. CONTINUITIES 2000

Years of Abstract Art, Selected by Paul Hughes, Old Chapel Gallery, Duke of Somerset Estate until 24 October 2021 reviewed by Ptolemy Mann. TURANDOT and the Fantastic East, Museo del Tessuto Prado, Italy until 21 November 2021, reviewed by Berea Antaki. COMING NEXT KEEPING WARM: Textiles to Warm the Body and Soul

SELVEDGE ('selvid3) n. 1. finished differently 2. the non-fraying edge of a length of woven fabric. [: from SELF + EDGE]

SELVEDGE 3

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