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Gorgeous knitting, crochet & embroidery supplies LOOPKNITTING.COM @LOOPLONDONLOVES Photographer Turkina Faso @turkinafaso, Model Ariish Wal @arrriish, Dress Molly Goddard @mollygoddard, Stylist @tonastell Makeup @meekee_s Hair @nicolekahlani Set @lottielawtondesign Assistant @aaronthomasvernon Production @ameliatrevette & @wow.create @polinamoldaschl Photo Assistant @joesmurt @telegraphstella Rug @nanimarquina_official Printing @modernelab @theconranshopofficial @patriciamcmahonphotography Special thanks to @cre8studio @theheath.studio Publisher: Selvedge Ltd, 14 Milton Park, Highgate, London, N6 5QA, T: +44 7723 465522 www.selvedge.org Founder: Polly Leonard editor@selvedge.org Features Editor: Dr Laura Gray editorial@selvedge.org Editorial Assistant: Berea Antaki editorialassistant@selvedge.org Sub Editor: Liberty Leonard-Shaw Special Projects: Ronja Brown projects@selvedge.org Consultant (Brand Collaborations & Marketing): Pamela Kelly media@selvedge.org Events Director: Catherine Harris events@selvedge.org Blog Editor: Eleanor Humphrey blog@selvedge.org Customer Service: Hester Thorp customerservice@selvedge.org Product Development: Florencia Hurtado products@selvedge.org Orders: Minna Stubbina orders@selvedge.org bi-monthly - (ISSN No: 1742-254X, USPS No: 21430) is published bi-monthly - January, March, May, July, September & November by Selvedge Ltd, UK and is distributed in the USA by RRD/Spatial, 1250 Valley Brook Ave, Lyndhurst NJ 07071. Periodicals postage paid at South Hackensack, NJ 07606. POSTMASTER: send address changes to selvedge, c/o RRD, 1250 Valley Brook Ave, Lyndhurst NJ 07071. Registered Office 14 Milton Park, Highgate, London, N6 5QA. Copyright © Selvedge Ltd 2021. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. The editor reserves the right to edit, shorten or modify any material submitted. The editor’s decision on all printed material is final. The views expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of Selvedge magazine, Selvedge Ltd or the editor. Unsolicited material will be considered but cannot be returned. Printing: Westdale Press Ltd UK. Colour Origination: PH Media. Distribution: Spatial Mail. Postmaster send address corrections to Selvedge Magazine, Spatial House, Willow Farm Business Park, Castle Donnington, Derby, DE74 2TW. Subscription rates for one year (6 issues): Paper Magazine, UK £80, Europe £100, USA & Rest of World £120
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BIAS CONTRIBUTORS We ask our contributors to tell us about a time they got dressed up to the nines arie Taillefer M The hemline index, the theoretical correlation between economics and yardage attributed to George Taylor in the mid-1920s, has been endlessly debated. The theory suggests that an upward-leaning economic forcast is reflected in upward-creeping hemlines, that then fall back down with recessions. At first, one imagines, it might be onto something, with shorter skirts in the Roaring Twenties followed by longer ones after the stock market crash in 1929–probably why the theory has persisted. However, if you trace the economy over the last century, the thesis falls apart. The picture is more complex with politics, pandemics, and social movements affecting the zeitgeist as well as economics. Recently, sales of business suits dropped by 25%. Although we have been drifting away from formal dress codes for years, the new normal of hybrid working may be the final nail in the coffin for the business suit. Kate Cavendish Yet, dressing up makes us feel good. Recently, the belle of the Met Gala ball, Billie Eilish, donned a blush Oscar de la Renta gown, which drowned her in an ocean of tulle. Elsewhere, copious tulle undoubtedley has dramatic impact. It was used to great effect by Killing Eve’s fabulously-clad villain, played by Jodie Comer, who wore a sugar pink trapeze dress designed by Molly Goddard. Lydia Caston examines and traces the origins of these exaggerated shapes. We get a glimpse of old-world Hollywood as Virginia Postrel muses on the quality of glamour, with its shifting form and eternal pull. No matter the genre, dresses tell stories: their messages can be read in novels, TV shows, red carpets, and films, where they cement characters and plot in our imagination. Nadia Albertini In this issue, we unpick embellishment; from the sequins and plumes that adorned glamorous women and fueled enormous industry, to the work of Des Midinettes of Paris. So, if you are lucky enough to recieve an invitation to a party this Christmas, put on your glad rags and have a ball! Polly Leonard, Founder der Dua Abbas Rizvi I still recall the thrill of dressing up to perform with our university faculty rock band. I wore a multi-tier fringe dress, five-inch platform leopard-print booties, and sang everything from Blondie and Tina Turner to Gillian Welch. It’s a glamorous feeling indeed to be under the stage lights in front of some 1,000 students and colleagues, wearing and doing something entirely different from my ‘day job’. In fact, I wore the booties to class the following day and look forward to breaking them out again when we are able to perform live. I’m presenting my book about Rébé in Paris next month. It will be an important moment for me and I know exactly what I’ll be wearing. I bought this dress five years ago, thinking of this special occasion: a beautiful vintage dress from the 1930s. It’s made of a lightweight printed silk georgette. The floral pattern reminds me of a beautiful watercolor landscape or one of Renoir’s romantic paintings, with pink and orange shades blending into greens. The bias cut, typical from the 1930s, follows the bodyline and creates a beautiful floating skirt. I always dreaded dressing up and felt that my best self was to be found in low-key outfits. Growing up in Pakistan, I was expected to wear a sari– something I dodged for the longest time. It epitomised, for me, dressing to the nines (and restricted mobility, to boot). It also confused me with its sinuous muddling of top and bottom–until I tried it and found it to be the most adaptable piece of clothing I had ever worn. It also lent itself well to sprinting, as I discovered by darting across the lawn in it to meet my friend. SELVEDGE 5 SELVEDGE 5

Gorgeous knitting, crochet & embroidery supplies

LOOPKNITTING.COM @LOOPLONDONLOVES

Photographer Turkina Faso @turkinafaso, Model Ariish Wal @arrriish, Dress Molly Goddard @mollygoddard, Stylist @tonastell Makeup @meekee_s Hair @nicolekahlani Set @lottielawtondesign Assistant @aaronthomasvernon Production @ameliatrevette & @wow.create @polinamoldaschl Photo Assistant @joesmurt @telegraphstella Rug @nanimarquina_official Printing @modernelab @theconranshopofficial @patriciamcmahonphotography Special thanks to @cre8studio @theheath.studio

Publisher: Selvedge Ltd, 14 Milton Park, Highgate, London, N6 5QA, T: +44 7723 465522 www.selvedge.org

Founder: Polly Leonard editor@selvedge.org Features Editor: Dr Laura Gray editorial@selvedge.org Editorial Assistant: Berea Antaki editorialassistant@selvedge.org Sub Editor: Liberty Leonard-Shaw Special Projects: Ronja Brown projects@selvedge.org Consultant (Brand Collaborations & Marketing): Pamela Kelly media@selvedge.org Events Director: Catherine Harris events@selvedge.org Blog Editor: Eleanor Humphrey blog@selvedge.org Customer Service: Hester Thorp customerservice@selvedge.org Product Development: Florencia Hurtado products@selvedge.org Orders: Minna Stubbina orders@selvedge.org bi-monthly -

(ISSN No: 1742-254X, USPS No: 21430) is published bi-monthly - January, March, May, July, September & November by Selvedge Ltd, UK and is distributed in the USA by RRD/Spatial, 1250 Valley Brook Ave, Lyndhurst NJ 07071. Periodicals postage paid at South Hackensack, NJ 07606. POSTMASTER: send address changes to selvedge, c/o RRD, 1250 Valley Brook Ave, Lyndhurst NJ 07071. Registered Office 14 Milton Park, Highgate, London, N6 5QA. Copyright © Selvedge Ltd 2021. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. The editor reserves the right to edit, shorten or modify any material submitted. The editor’s decision on all printed material is final. The views expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of Selvedge magazine, Selvedge Ltd or the editor. Unsolicited material will be considered but cannot be returned. Printing: Westdale Press Ltd UK. Colour Origination: PH Media. Distribution: Spatial Mail. Postmaster send address corrections to Selvedge Magazine, Spatial House, Willow Farm Business Park, Castle Donnington, Derby, DE74 2TW. Subscription rates for one year (6 issues): Paper Magazine, UK £80, Europe £100, USA & Rest of World £120

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