reported one journalist, ‘seemed ­hypnotized, caught in a magical trance. It had never ceased to be one of Europe’s most beautiful cities, but for two long decades a cloud or repressive sadness had enveloped the Gothic and baroque towers. Now it had vanished. The crowds were calm, confident and civilized. Each day, people assembled after work at 4pm, filing politely, patiently and purposely into Wencelas Square. The city burst with colour: poster were plastered on walls, on shop windows, on any inch of free space.’ […]

Four days later the country’s two most famous dissidents – Vaclav Havel and the hero of 1968 ­Alexander Dubcek – appeared on a balcony above the square, the latter in his first public appearance after twenty one years of enforced silence. Dubcek said at the time: ‘The government is telling us that the street is not the place for things to be solved, but I say the street is the place. The voice of the street must be heard.’

From Wanderlust, 2001

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