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Contents Turkey for Connoisseurs

Art and Architecture

A Grand New World

Majestic marvels: how the Balyan dynasty transformed Istanbul, by Philip Mansel · 46

Roman Roads

Continuing their Turkish quest, the photographer Don McCullin and Barnaby Rogerson discover more of Rome’s legacy in enchanted ruins and unsung museums · 58

Making an Entrance

Berrin Torolsan on the Crown Princes’ Lodge and the birth of Ottoman Orientalism · 118

Travel and Places

The Gentle Hunt

Andrew Byfield is bewitched by rare snowdrops above the Black Sea · 106

The Silence of Snow

When the world turned white: Jenny White recalls a happy winter on the Bosphorus · 134

Connoisseur Prince of Painters

Painter, caliph, exile: the intriguing life of Abdülmecid Efendi, by Andrew Finkel · 5

A Profusion of Grandeur Saleroom highlights · 10 Two Tales of a City Byzantium discovered anew, by Robert Ousterhout · 12

Lives Less Ordinary

A century of talent: Turkey’s forgotten women artists, by Thomas Roueché · 16

Golden Glories of Kazakhstan Treasures from the steppe, by Caroline Eden · 26


Digging for Jimmy The enigmatic genius who gave us Çatalhöyük, by Patricia Daunt · 39

The First Vaxxer Maureen Freely salutes Lady Mary Wortley Montagu · 42

That’s Life Caroline Finkel on the minutiae of Ottoman living · 42

Weaving a Way Through History Peter Alford Andrews on a passion for tablet weaving · 43


Small Wonder The deliciously versatile lentil, by Berrin Torolsan · 142 Who Dares Wins Andrew Finkel braves Istanbul’s latest taste sensations · 148

From Our Correspondents Private View Andrew Finkel’s Istanbul diary · 36 Letter from Anatolia Leaders of the pack, by Roger Norman · 149 Music Bring on the jazz and all that pizzazz, by John Shakespeare Dyson · 151


Andrew Finkel and Barnaby Rogerson’s tribute to the effervescent polymath Bob Chenciner · 154

Cover Istanbul as it might have been: proposal for the Old City’s new docks, c1890, by Simon Balyan – see ‘A Grand New World’, page 46

National Museum-Institute of Architecture after Alexander Tamanyan, Yerevan

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